Every city has a charm: from Bangkok to Bali and from Paris to Peru. But for some cities, it takes time to see and appreciate its uniqueness. That's how it usually is for places like Phnom Pehn where I visited recently. At first, there seems to be nothing special about this city. But then, I visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museam and the Killing Fields: BOOM, just like that, I felt a connection with the place. I know I'm quite a history buff, but even for those of you who arent, it is worth going to. Trust me. You will see the world in a new light.
So, lets get going on the details. You don't have to know much about the history of Cambodia, but I'm going to run through the main points.
After Cambodia got independence from France, there was a civil war between the governement and the Khmer Rouge whom were communist. The Khmer Rouge won and they had some very controversial ideas about how the country should be run. They believed that Cambodia should go back to becoming an agrarian society and tried to elimate anybody they felt were a threat. Teachers, Lawyers, Proffessors - all killed. The leader of the Khmer Rouge was Pol Pot who was ruthless. As time went by, the Khmer Rouge became paranoid and ended up killing 25% of thier population.
To know more about the genocide from a personal perspective, I highly recommend reading 'First they killed my father' by Luong Ung.
The Tuol Sleng Museam used to be a prison where they Khmer Rouge detained prisioners and tortured them. At the Museam, you are given a leaflet and are free to walk around the two buildings. In each room, you can find pictures of the actual prisoners being tortured, the beds they slept on, the weapons/tools used for torture, and even their actual clothes and mug shots. It is extremely depressing and heart breaking as the pictures are extremely graphic.
The cost of the museam is just 2$ and is located in central Phnom Pehn. On some days, there is a lecture about the history of the Cambodian Genocide at the museam. The day I went there wasnt one so I missed it.
I recomend going here first and then going to the Killing Fields.
The Killing Fields is the equivalent of Aushwitz in the Cambodian genocide. It is located 15 km away from Phnom Pehn. On the roads there though, it takes an hour. It is recommended that you arrange for a ride on the way back as well as its almost impossible to find one on the spot.
Once you pay for your ticket, you'll receive a device and headphones in which you can listen to the recording . There are many languages to choose from. The whole thing takes about an hour. You have to listen to the recording while you walk across the killing fields.
It includes the history of the Cambodian Genocide both from a technical and personal viewpoint. It is very well organized and will bound to make you emotional. Afterwards, you can see the stupa where the skulls of the victims are preserved as well as a small museum.
Overall, these two places shouldn't be missed if you're coming to Phnom Pehn. It really makes you see the world in a different light.
Have fun!
S.